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First-timer's guide to Japan

Tradition and modern life side by side. A plan with fewer stops and more time in each, with trains, etiquette and luggage sorted before you fly.

When to go

March–May, October–November

Where to base yourself

Tokyo
One well-placed hotel and neighborhoods taken one at a time.
Hakone & Mount Fuji
A ryokan night and the lake views, weather permitting.
Kyoto & Nara
Temples and gardens at the quieter hours.
Osaka
The food city, and an easy last stop before flying home.

A first route: Classic Japan, slowly, 14 nights

  1. Tokyo — 5 nights
  2. Hakone — 2 nights
  3. Kyoto — 5 nights
  4. Osaka — 2 nights

From my own trips

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